How to operate Motorized Bicycle Cheat Sheet:
Engine cold: start choke up, open fuel valve.
Engine Warm or Hot:no need for Chock up, leave the choke down but open the gas valve.
Holding clutch and start to pedal until you reach 6 – 10 MPH speed, let go the clutch, KEEP Pedaling to help your engine, once the engine starts hold the clutch in again, accelerate a little bit to warm up your engine, push the choke lever down, so your engine can breathe normally.
Start pedaling again and slowly release the clutch, KEEP PEDALING, till you reach a good speed, you can keep pedaling if going slow or just pedaling in air for a little exercise.
Accelerate to speed up, or if you need to slow down just decelerate to slow down, but if you are going too slow, you need to pull the clutch and pedal if you have to or if you are trying to stop pull the clutch and use the brakes to stop.
Making turns you need to pull clutch sometimes if going too slow.
Making U-turn you need to pull the clutch and pedal or use bikes speed as it is going.
To stop, pull the clutch and use brakes to stop.
After riding, if you want to park your bike, close the gas valve and put the choke in up position, lock your bike.
Avoid operating in rain.
ADDING OIL: Make sure to Add 5oz of oil to every Gallon of 92 Octane and up gas only, OR 2.5oz to your gas tank if filling up at the gas station.
Go slow for First 150 miles (or 2 full tanks) don’t rev up too high and give your engine 3-5 minutes break for every 30 minutes of ride time.
Maintenance & What to Watch Out For
Every Day Riding: Pay attention to three main areas around the engine. While the engine is cool, with a 10mm wrench, carefully snug up the 2 nuts securing the carburetor intake manifold, also 2 nuts securing the exhaust. Tighten the 4 nuts on top of the cylinder head. Use caution to not over tighten nuts and bolts. Finger tightening to a max of 5-10 pounds of torque should be good. Look around the rest of the motorized bicycle, tighten and secure every nut, bolt or screw as often as possible.
Front Wheel & Fender: Make sure The wheels are secure, the wheels are true, the tire pressure is correct, the tire bead is seated properly and uniformly across the rim, and the fender strut nuts and bolts are attached.
Rear Wheel: The wheel is secure, the wheel is true, the tire pressure is correct, the tire bead is seated properly and uniformly across the rim, the chain does not rub on the tire, the coaster brake arm is attached (when applicable), the wheel bearings are within adjustment and there is no play or tightness in the bearings.
How to Adjust the Rear Wheel: Adjust the rear wheel in the dropouts if engine chain rubbing occurs. To either center the tire into position or adjust chain tensioner, loosen one side axle nut and then pull the portion of the wheel closest to the bottom bracket towards you and then tighten that side's axle nut. Then, do the same to the other side until the rear wheel has the same distance between the engine drive chain and the right side chain.
IE : Loosen the right axle nut, pull the wheel to the right, and re tighten the right axle nut; loosen the left axle nut, pull the wheel to the left, and re tighten the left axle nut. “Walk” the wheel back until both chains are tight and the wheel is centered between both chains and not rubbing.
Coaster Brake Warning: Never move the coaster brake arm once either axle nut has been tightened. Bearing adjustment can go out of whack if you don’t pay special attention to how and when you position the coaster brake arm. To remove a coaster brake wheel, detach the coaster brake arm bolt first then either side axle nut. To reinstall a coaster brake wheel, slide the wheel into position with both chains on their sprockets, tighten the coaster brake arm hanger, loosely tighten the right side axle nut, and then the left side axle nut. Next, follow the procedure above for “walking” the wheel into position.
Chain Tensioner: The chain tensioner acts in many ways the same as a derailleur guiding the chain onto the sprocket. With the clutch in, check that the tensioner guides and centers the chain onto the sprocket teeth in the middle of the chain. If you have to reposition the chain tensioner to adjust for chain slack or if the tensioner gets knocked out of position somehow, make sure that the chain tensioner is fastened with self tapping screwto support the side load that occurs during engine start up and overrun/deceleration . Always keep a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of slack in the engine drive chain.
Clutch Free Play: Too much or Not enough clutch free play will not allow the engine to engage. Adjust the free play as needed, either on the clutch lever at the barrel end adjuster for fine adjustments or on the engine at the clutch arm’s cable stop for gross adjustment.
*HELPFUL VIDEOS*
1: HOW TO BREAK IN YOUR MOTORIZED BIKE
2: MOTORIZED BIKE REPAIR OTHER VIDEOS